Wine expert:Malvina Fraccari

On falling in love with Italian natural wines

Characterised by low-intervention growing, harvesting, and fermentation methods, Italy’s natural wine scene excels with small batch, family-run wineries at the industry’s cutting edge.

In this interview, we speak to Malvina Fraccari, CEO and co-founder of Italnatural Wines. With a lifetime of industry experience, Malvina is a widely knowledgeable and a truly passionate member of the wine community.

Chief Wine Officer: Malvina, please tell us what made you fall in love with wine?

Malvina Fraccari: “I believe the first spark came from the cultural fabric I grew up in. In Veneto, wine has been part of everyday life for as long as anyone can remember. Many of us grew up in families where we made our own wine. They weren’t always harmonious or intriguing wines — but they were real, simple, authentic wines.

As a child, I remember that the first thing my family would ask friends who came to visit was, “What can I get you to drink?” And a bottle would be opened. I think that constant association—an open bottle on the table, glasses in hand, a laid table, friends gathered around—that conviviality and joy linked to wine were the first spark.”

What drew you to natural wines at this point of your career?

“They feel richer somehow. They are healthy wines, and they are stories. If you listen carefully, they tell you everything about their land, the weather adventures of that vintage, the hands that shaped them. All this richness ignited a passion in me that there is simply no going back from.

Wine is an emotional world. It’s about sensation, instinct, immediacy, spontaneity, charm—everything that escapes control and goes straight to the gut. By tasting (a lot!) and selecting natural wines, I realized they can be even better than conventional ones. Extremely expressive, distinctive, full of personality, with beautiful organoleptic qualities.”

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[Natural wines] feel richer somehow. They are healthy wines, and they are stories. If you listen carefully, they tell you everything about their land, the weather adventures of that vintage, the hands that shaped them.

– Malvina Fraccari

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What are the biggest myths surrounding natural wines, and are they right or wrong?

“Myth one: Natural wines contain no sulphites. That’s not true. Natural wines do contain sulphites—even if only those produced naturally during fermentation—but in significantly lower quantities than conventional wines. Technically, a wine can be defined as sulphite-free when sulphites are below 10 mg/l, and many natural wines fall into this category.

Myth two: Natural wines are cloudy or taste like vinegar. That is absolutely not true, and it’s one of the points I fight hardest for. Natural wines can—and must—be good, just as good as conventional wines. The big plus is that they are produced in a healthier way, without the use of chemicals in the vineyard or in the cellar.

Myth three: Natural wines cannot age. Absolutely not! First, any wine must be properly stored to preserve its organoleptic qualities and evolve optimally. That said, natural wines, like conventional ones, can have excellent aging potential. Their longevity fundamentally depends on the vinification method and the grape variety.

Myth four: Natural wines don’t give you headaches. Indeed, the lower quantity of sulphites and additives often makes these wines easier for our bodies to digest and tolerate, reducing the classic side effects we’ve grown used to with conventional wines.”

What makes Italy’s winelands such a great place for producing natural wines?

“Italy cultivates around 80% of the world’s wine grape varieties which is an astonishing natural heritage. This is thanks to our extraordinarily diverse landscapes: the Dolomites, the islands of Sicily, volcanoes, rolling hills, continental climates, Mediterranean climates—an immense range of conditions that allow countless varieties to thrive.

We also have a deeply rooted gastronomic culture based on the quality of raw ingredients, with rigorous care in how they are used. Simple recipes executed perfectly. Few embellishments, lots of truth. After all, what is more complex to cook than a truly good pasta al pomodoro?”

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Wine is an emotional world. It’s about sensation, instinct, immediacy, spontaneity, charm — everything that escapes control and goes straight to the gut.

– Malvina Fraccari

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What areas in Italy are producing exciting wines that people should be paying more attention to?

“Oh mamma mia! Many… so many. But if I must choose one that still has less international visibility than it deserves, I would say the Colli Tortonesi and their Timorasso. An extraordinary grape variety that produces stunning, magnificent wines.”

What’s the biggest thing you’ve learned about Europe and the UK’s attitude towards natural wine? Do you see that attitude changing for the better?

“Wine increasingly represents knowledge and culture—in Europe and in the UK as well. Italy is a much-loved country; there is great curiosity and interest in connecting with us and with the authenticity of our production—whether it’s our gastronomic excellence or our winemaking traditions.

What is truly disappointing, however, is seeing legislative measures impose economic barriers that make it more expensive for consumers to travel to Italy through a glass.”

Try the best Italian natural wines

for yourself

Chief Wine Officer currently has an exclusive deal with Italnatural Wines, available to all CWO Society members.

At a discounted price, members can purchase six of Italy’s finest natural wines to enjoy alongside six mini tasting videos with Alessandro Pace, Italnatural Wine’s Business Development Director. Each premium wine is explored in this casual taste-along series. Simply sign up to the CWO Society for free to unlock the discount.

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