Anne Krebiehl MW on the wines and regions of Austria

Spotlight series

Anne Krebiehl MW is a widely published wine writer, lecturer, and Master of Wine. She regularly judges international competitions, is a panel chair of the International Wine Challenge, and has helped to make wine in New Zealand, Germany and Italy. Her first book; The Wines of Germany, was published in Infinite Ideas’ Classic Wine Library in September 2019 and won the Domaine Faiveley International Wine Book Of The Year 2020. She is also the Vinous.com editor for Germany, Alsace and Austria.

In this exclusive interview, we ask Anne about the many fine wines of Austria, how to spend a week of wine tourism, and what the future holds for the region.

You’ve stated before that wine in Austria punches far above its weight. What would you highlight as its strongest characteristics?

Anne Krebiehl MW: “That is easy to answer in one sentence: The general quality standard—regardless of style—is incredibly high.”

Do you have a personal favourite wine region within Austria?

Anne Krebiehl MW: “No, I do not, because there is so much great stuff around the country. I do, however, have some favourite styles. I love single-site Rieslings from stony sites. These are wines that are hair-raisingly stony and exciting. I also have a soft spot for well-made, long-aged Sekts. Last but not least, I love Blaufränkisch, an indigenous red grape variety that deserves to be far better known. I love it especially when it is made in Pinot-esque fashion.”

Is climate change affecting local varietals at all? And how is the local wine industry adapting, if so?

Anne Krebiehl MW: “Of course it is. Just look at 2024: Spring frosts in April did much damage because buds already burst by March. Heat and drought continued from July well into September, then torrential rains caused widespread flooding. The rain also meant that many drystone walls in ancient, terraced vineyards collapsed. So growing grapes in the early 21st century is a giant challenge, no matter where in the world you are. Soil care, viticultural practice and the genetic selection of both vines and rootstocks will be central to this question.”

It is not easy growing grapes anywhere these days. The best winemakers are adapting and evolving what they do—no matter what wine style they make. It is easy to think that only tattooed, bearded hipsters are at the very edge of what is new, but that is not the case.

– Anne Krebiehl MW

Is there anything exciting happening within the Austrian wine scene that isn’t yet a mainstream talking point?

Anne Krebiehl MW: “Lots of course, there are wonderful winemakers pushing all sorts of styles. You can taste what they make at the Karakterre events.”

If I had one week to travel Austria’s wine regions, where should I go?

Anne Krebiehl MW: “If you have one week only, I suggest you fly to Vienna and work your way west along the Danube, this way you get the vineyards of Wagram, Kamptal, Kremstal, Traisental and Wachau. You can travel up the tributaries of the Danube, south along the Traisen, north along the Kamp and up into the Krems Valley. At long last you will get to Spitz in the Wachau when you continue along the Spitzer Graben, another lateral valley with marginal vineyards. This way you have scooped up a vast part of Austria’s wine landscape.

If red is your thing, you should head south and then east of Vienna, to Thermenregion if you like Pinot Noir; and to Carnumtum if you like Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch. Then just continue into Burgenland for every conceivable style of Blaufränkisch. Don’t forget to look around, to take a hike into the vineyards, to eat, to drink, to take in architecture and topography. Since you are in Austria where music is always part of the equation, make sure you catch a concert or two. If you have just a weekend, Vienna itself has vineyards within its city limits, and the wine is damn good too! “

Do you have a favourite Austrian wine for summer and winter?

Anne Krebiehl MW: “I will always go for a glass of fine Sekt, come rain or shine, summer or winter.”

I love single-site Rieslings from stony sites. These are wines that are hair-raisingly stony and exciting. I also have a soft spot for well-made, long-aged Sekts. Last but not least, I love Blaufränkisch, an indigenous red grape variety that deserves to be far better known.

– Anne Krebiehl MW

Where do you see the Austrian wine industry heading in the next 10 years?

Anne Krebiehl MW: “I see it redefining itself. As I said earlier, it is not easy growing grapes anywhere these days. The best winemakers are adapting and evolving what they do—no matter what wine style they make. It is easy to think that only tattooed, bearded hipsters are at the very edge of what is new, but that is not the case. People care deeply about their land and vines, as do so many growers around the globe. Growing grapes for wine is an ancient human endeavour and the Vitis vinifera, the grapevine as we know it today, is the product of centuries of human interaction. It will evolve alongside us.”

On a trip to Vienna, we once stumbled across an unusual drink named Sturm, that seems very hard to find outside of Austria. Is Sturm technically even wine? And why isn’t it more popular elsewhere?

For those who do not know, Sturm—which translates as storm—is grape juice; i.e. must, that has started fermenting. It is that halfway house between juice and wine, with residual sugar that is not yet fermented. It has yeasty funk, full of life and deliciousness and danger. It is easy to drink, easy to drink too much of, and absolutely unpredictable in terms of digestive issues, let alone intoxication. It is a strictly seasonal and local pleasure that needs to be enjoyed close to a fermenting vat of wine. In order to transport it you’d have to make it pliable and sterile by sulphuring or filtration, and then it is no longer Sturm…”