Spotlight series
Cees van Casteren MW introduces us to The Netherlands’ wine regions
Winemaking in The Netherlands dates back to the Roman Empire. Despite this long history, the small nation is not considered a major player on the global wine scene. Bordered by more productive countries in Germany and Belgium, what is the culture and sentiment around wine and winemaking in this much-loved low-lying country?
Master of Wine and CWO event speaker, Cees van Casteren offered us his wine expertise on all things Dutch.
Is local wine and viticulture a source of national pride in The Netherlands?
Cees van Casteren: “The total vineyard surface here is 300ha (roughly 1.1 square miles). Only a handful producers make wines which would be able to compete with the rest of Europe in terms of quality. Most of the local production of wine is made from hybrids, of which I am not a big fan.”
For those more competitive Dutch wines, does the unique landscape of the country affect the end product at all?
“The maritime climate has lots of humidity and rain (those in the UK know what I am talking about), and often disappointing levels of sunshine which requires early ripening varieties which are somewhat resistant to rot and mildew. Hence the high percentage of hybrids here. The best wines are from the Jeker valley, just south of Maastricht at the border with Belgium where vitis vinifera (like pinot gris, auxerrois, pinot noir and riesling) grow on some of the rare hills of The Netherlands.”
What are some of the more recognised wine regions in the country?
“Vijlen has hills which are exceedingly rare, as the rest of the country is as ‘flat as a dime’ (a common saying here). The southern province, Limburg, is the most beautiful part of The Netherlands and the best suited to viticulture because of a more suitable climate and much better exposure to the sun, when it shines.”
The best wines are from the Jeker valley, just south of Maastricht at the border with Belgium where vitis vinifera (like pinot gris, auxerrois, pinot noir and riesling) grow on some of the rare hills of The Netherlands.
– Cees van Casteren MW
How do you think Dutch wine can set itself apart in the global wine economy?
“Dutch wine production is extremely small and doesn’t exist in the global wine economy. It is drunk locally, not exported, however a handful producers make quite good wines, predominantly whites. Dutch wine is a curiosity and will probably stay a curiosity for a while.”
I’m a wine tourist with one week in your beautiful country; where should I begin and end my journey through your winelands?
“The short answer is that I would suggest wine tourists to visit Belgium first! They have more vineyard surface and much better quality wines than in The Netherlands. However, I would suggest visiting the southern province of Limburg; especially the southern parts (Jeker Valley, Vijlen, Mergelland). Second, the eastern region starting in Groesbeek further to the middle east of The Netherlands. And thirdly, the southern province of Zeeland. However, do not expect to see a great many vineyards!“
If you could list three Dutch wines for the uninitiated to try tomorrow, what would you suggest?
“Any wine from Apostelhoeve (Jeker Valley, Maastricht), any wine from Wijngaardsberg (Ulestraten, just outside of Maastricht) and I would suggest crossing the border (into Belgium) at Maastricht and drive for 15mins to Wijnkasteel Genoelselderen and try any of their sparkling and still wines.”
Learn how to taste wine
Cees's bestselling book, Anyone Can Taste Wine, is described as "the best learn to taste wine book I have ever come across." by renowned wine critic and journalist, Jancis Robinson.
Meet Cees
Attend a CWO event in The Netherlands and you may be lucky enough to meet Cees in person.
Any questions?
If you have any wine tasting or wine industry questions for Cees, email us and we’ll send them on.